In that article he describes a simple tool that allows you to short out one cylinder, then the other, comparing the drop in RPM for each cylinder. The throttle idle stops and throttle cable lengths are adjusted to give an equivalent drop in engine speed when cutting out either cylinder. Read his article, it tells you everything you need to know to perform this basic maintenance, and have the smooth-running motorcycle you deserve.
Here are the two wires with sparkplug tops, or barrels. They are made from heavy-gauge solid copper electrical wiring, wrapped around the threaded plug tops and crimped with beefy pliers. The bare top ends were folded back and pounded with a hammer against an anvil until they had a snug fit into the plug wire caps. If the fit is too loose, they may come undone and cause quite severe damage to bikes with electronic ignitions. The copper wire on its own is too thin, and so must be doubled over and hammered to fit. Maybe you'll find thicker wire...
A closeup view of the two wires. Note how the threaded plug tops were filed flat on two sides. This gives the electrical wire something to bite into when you're wrapping and crimping it. When I get a hotter soldering iron, I plan to solder these connections. Note that you only need about four inches of wire, total, to get a decent adaptor here.
To install the wires, first pull the caps from the plugs...
...then twist the threaded plug tops onto the plug tips. They don't have to be super snug against the plug, but the bare end of the wire should be sticking up, so the plug cap can be attached. As long as they're several twists onto the spark plug, they'll conduct the spark.
When they're on they look like this. You're now ready to start the engine and balance the carbs. These are sturdy enough that you can go out for a ride to cool off the engine and they won't fall off on the road. Refer to Snowbum's article for proper synchronizing technique.
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The pictures on this page were taken with a Kodak DC280 digital camera.