Holly's Raggle Taggle Euroean Tour

Sunday, June 20th, 1999 - undulating Swedes

This past weekend I got to celebrate the Five Petal Rose Festival, the 690 year anniversary of Cesky Krumlov. As I walked through the winding cobblestone streets trying not to yearn for my many renaissance costumes back home i am delighted at the seriousness to which the townspeople take this festival.
The whole town is in costume. There are the noble people wearing silks and velvets. Ladies with pearls in their hair, high elizabethan collars and empire waists. I notice there are many smudges between medieval costuming and renaissance costuming. There are also people wearing clothes that "almost" fit the style but it is still nice to see everyone trying. Never have I seen such a fair set in a more perfect place. The ancient square, the small boisterous taverns all add to the ambience. I notice with delight that even the local dread heads fit in really well--their clothes already a bit peasant like and the men's hair in long knotted locks make them look like farmers. I start to wonder exactly how much has changed with time.
I am one of the "almost" costume people. I wore one of my belly dancing costumes trying to look as gypsy as i could. Friday night there was the most amazing band playing in the square. A middle eastern style band with some celtic flute that made everyone HAVE to move. As soon as the music started, i looked at Helger and said, "uh oh" and then with a flash I was to the side of the stage where there was lots of dancing space throwing off my heavy cape and twirling to the music. Celtic leaps, middle eastern undulations, dramatic flamenco hands...it all came together there in my little dark corner.
I attracted a great deal of attention. Helger came over with the rest of our hostel friends and began twirling his rhythm sticks while i danced. Other people got inspired and there was a whole crew of costumed people twirling and wiggling. IT was a blast.
The funniest part was when i cajoled this swedish guy to dance with me. After he hoped around with me for a while he and all his friends wanted to talk to me:

"We are going to Turkey next and we want you to show us how to dance in this way."

big pause

"right now?"

"yeah, why not"

I look over at my friend Brent who is doubled over with laughter just egging me on to do it. "I wish i had a camera" he says.

So while the whole rest of the audience is jigging and drinking i begin an abbreviated lesson.

"ok, lets start with the simple hips side to side. . . now bend your knees. . very good, you, yes you, you don't have to twist your mouth at the same time. . right, now don't forget to bend your knees."

it was the most hilariously empowering thing having five huge Swedish guys attempting to "wiggle like little snakes" to my direction. I told my friend Brent later, "I had better watch what I hope for." When they were completely humiliated I finally said,

"No really guys, when a beautiful woman starts to dance, this is what you do." I got down on one knee and started clapping and saying "opa!"

The guy who danced with me earlier said, "ok, then, well dance!" I continued my dancing and five swedish men, dutifully with serious faces, got down on one knee in front of me and began to clap.

other than that evening, i hate to say it, but the festival was rather anti-climactic. Helger and I found some drum circles held by local groups of young people, but on the whole found them rather full of "drunk" energy and we never got to jam really magically.
We have been sustaining rather well on very little money. Helger and I cook yummy healthy breakfast for people staying in the hostel and charge everyone just enough to pay for the grocery bill and both of our beds for the evening. We could be even more ahead if we did a little street performing, but Helger is kind of fickle about when he wants to do it, so i'm not pushing it right now. The last few days I have been teaching a little bit of yoga to people after breakfast. There is a real feeling of community at the hostel and I'm finding that travellers have a definite way of creating "family."
There are so many stories here to tell, so many interesting quirks about life here. I'm afraid, however that this is the end of this story.
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